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Going on safari has certainly been one of those amazing life experiences that we will remember for a long time. Observing the animals in a natural setting is extraordinary, but seeing them in their environment adds that extra dimension. Once outside the confines of the lodge or off the vehicles, our lives were at risk from any number of species - lion, leopard, elephant, rhino, mambas, puff adders, cobras and scorpions to name a few. Without the professional guidance of our rangers, even the vehicles would not protect us from many of them if tell-tale warning signs were ignored or misunderstood. It is sobering and somewhat awe-inspiring to suddenly become one of the "lesser" species in a raw Darwinian environment.

In a similar vein to our Alaska trip last year, once inside the reserve there was little to link you to the modern world. There were no televisions, no radios and no cellphones - only the noises of the bush, the brilliant starry skies and a very thin wire surrounding the lodge separating us from "the wild". There is a solitude and tranquility that develops almost immediately....so much so that after five days away we were a bit overwhelmed when we returned to the regular hustle and bustle of our hotel in Johannesburg.

Madikwe is a 75,000 hectare game reserve in the north-west of South Africa bordering Botswana. This park is particularly noteworthy in that it was designed specifically to provide opportunities in an underdeveloped area of the country while promoting animal conservation. It is a joint venture between the government, private industry and most importantly the local communities. To establish the park, degraded farming areas were cleared, a perimeter fence was erected and the largest game relocation in history was undertaken to transfer around 10,000 animals into the park. It is joint managed, and by all accounts appears to be a resounding success for both the local communities and of course the animals!

We were fortunate enough to see the "Big Five" (elephant, lion, leopard, rhino and buffalo) as well as the very rare African Wild Dog which is one of the features of Madikwe. However, every day was like a lottery - and whilst seeing the big five was exhilarating, the gentle grazing of a giraffe, the frenzied jumping of bushbabies and the labouring of a dung beetle could be just as rewarding.

Angry Africa

On our second day, our two rangers decided to stop the vehicles and track down on foot two male lions reportedly in the vicinity. Notably, our lodge did not have gun licenses and Gavin and Quentin disappeared into the bush armed only with their considerable experience. After about two minutes the chatter in the vehicles was interrupted by some almighty roars and a few loud yells - followed by complete silence.

We all froze then desparately started to formulate what to do next. Fortunately common sense prevailed and we decided to wait a little longer before doing anything rash. It turned out that our guides had been charged by the two males....but had held their ground which had ensured their safety. On their return we watched the two lions for a considerable time as they woke from their daily slumber and wandered to the waterhole to drink.

The next morning we were returning to the lodge after a brief spell of rain when we chanced upon a large herd of elephant, including some incredibly tiny and very cute calves. There was a vehicle ahead of us and both trucks inched forward to try and slip past the herd, as the dirt roads and tracks were being closed by the park due to the inclement weather. Out of the blue (at least to the guests), an angry female broke from the bush lining the road with ears flapping, trunk trumpeting and legs rapidly pounding the ground. With at least two tonnes of flesh bearing down on us, both vehicles revved their engines and suddenly we were rapidly beating a retreat in reverse as the mother continued to chase and rest of the herd formed ranks. It was our first encounter with angry elephants and we were to experience a number of close encounters that left all of us in awe (and Vanessa slightly shaken).

Bush Transport

Our transit to Madikwe was also a "first" for us. Not only did we have a private plane to take just the two of us there, but it was also a private 6-seater plane. It was extraordinarily personal flying in something not much larger than an SUV . It's difficult to describe the thrill of flying low over miles of bush that you know is teeming with big game. Landing was pure adrenalin as we banked sharply before skidding left and right along a short dirt strip cut out of the bush. The "arrival lounge" was a large tree under which a safari vehicle was parked.

Although our return journey was on a "big" plane (i.e. a 12-seater), it was no less uneventful. Prior to arrival of the plane, a lone giraffe casually strolled across the runway - arguably a potential impediment to safe take off or landing. As the propeller engine roared and we surged forward, the pilot inexplicably slammed on the brakes and the plane came to an abrupt standstill.....and a family of warthog trotted unperturbed across the landing strip in front of us. It was good to finally get in the air, but to cap off the excitement the back door of the plane swung wide open and one of our pilots casually manouvered to the back and dragged it closed, much to the relief of the passengers. The airline was fantastic and extremely professional, and our teenage pilots (....only a slight exaggeration, they had finished school....) shuttled us on our 3-stop hop to JB both smoothly and safely.

Nkwe Tracking

The elusive leopard ("nkwe" in local Tswana language) was a major attraction and on one occasion, after much searching, we spotted a large male stealing off and blending into the bush. Gavin and Johann rapidly piled us all into one vehicle and we bounced off road trailing the graceful cat until it decided to lose us, somewhat oblivious to our attentions. It was thrilling being on the "hunt" (modern-day photography style) and when we lost the trail, we returned to a nearby tree to find two dead wildebeest calves carefully placed in a high branch for a future meal. Along with our lion and elephant encounters, the sight of the poor calves was a sharp reminder than we weren’t in a zoo.

The Safari Experience

Our lodge Tuningi was a very small and personal outfit with space for only 16 guests. Gavin, Quentin, Heidi, Benny and the team made us feel like part of an extended family, and we enjoyed the company of the other guests. Deep baths overlooking the bush, outside showers, delicious meals and friendly staff made each day a luxurious pleasure. However, comforts aside, the safari routine itself was unexpectedly tiring.

The morning starts at 5:15am so that you can depart at dawn for your first game drive of the day. Coffee is usually served somewhere spectacular in the park following by a huge breakfast sometime later in the morning back at the lodge. Between breakfast and high tea you basically sleep, read, swim or just laze around taking in the sights and sounds of the bush. The waterhole at the lodge is regularly frequented by wildlife so the safari continues even while resting. Late afternoon you depart for your second game drive which ends at nightfall, but is broken up by extremely civilised sundowner drinks somewhere within the park. Often dinner is served in the "Boma", an enclosed and elevated area close to the waterhole under a huge fig tree after which the lodge is named. A roaring wood fire, paraffin lanterns and local folk songs sung by the staff make it a pretty magical experience, especially when a large herd of elephants wanders by to drink and play.

A wonderful experience and something we intend to repeat in the future.