October 31, 2007
09 PM
With Vanessa's travel capability rapidly diminishing, we embarked on our last adults-only roadtrip for the forseeable future. Our travel planning consisted of identifying destinations that fit the following criteria:
1) less than 7 hours flight
2) access to English-speaking world class hospitals
3) no malaria or dengue fever outbreaks
This narrowed our options considerably and apart from the steamy climes of Singapore, we were left with.....one option. Australia.
Given the tropical perma-summer that we live in, we were both attracted to the idea of a 'winter' holiday which would make it easier for Vanessa to move around. We both liked Melbourne and neither of us had ever driven along the Great Ocean Road, so we decided that we would make Victoria our destination.
To maximise our travel days, we took the red-eye and arrived at a very unsociable 4:45am at Tullamarine, with a sudden shock from relatively rapid change in temperatures. It's amazing after more than two years with 30C averages, mercury in the late teens seems positively icy. Wide tree-lined boulevards, traditional Greek and Italian restaurants and clanging trams are certainly a cliche for this city, but combined with the crisp spring weather and the prolific deciduous trees they really do add that European feel. We spent a wonderful evening in a restaurant that would have felt quite at ease nestled in the cobbled back laneways of Rome.
Art and shopping were the themes, and we indulged ourselves in both. The Guggenheim collection was in town and it contrasted with the evocative colonial scenes from the Heidelberg School and thoughtful Aboriginal Art collection at the classy NGV. We stayed at a boutique hotel called the Hatton in South Yarra and we made good use of the deep hot baths at the end of our days. Running around the botanical gardens and along the river with the swans and rowers was a highlight for Matt without the draining humidity that normally accompanies exercise in Singapore.
After sampling the fine food and meeting up with friends, we set out for our first stop on the Great Ocean Road - Apollo Bay. As expected, the scenery was stunning and the driving challenging but fun (....despite being encumbered with an automatic car....). We meandered around lighthouses, stopped to sample the panoramic views and spotted abundant wildlife all along. We didn't see Keanu on Bell's Beach, but a few dedicated surfers braved the icy water to take advantage of the rolling waves.
Our day at the Twelve Apostles wasn't the brilliant sunny seascape that we had envisiaged, but dark clouds and heavy rain added a moody ambience to the scene. We secretly congratulated ourselves that we had skipped the helicopter or light plane tours bumping around in the strong winds.
After a few days along the Southern Ocean and some lovely walking and fresh seafood, we headed north east via the Mornington Peninsular toward our final destination, the Dandenong Ranges. Our B&B in Olinda was lovely with four cottages, each individually decorated with a crackling wooden fire, local port and lots of individual touches. We had chosen this spot for our last days specifically to relax, and unwind we certainly did. We wandered through European style gardens and through grand forests of Mountain Ash. Having appreciated the beauty of European and North American forests for the last ten years, it was refreshing to be reminded of how varied and pretty the Australian bush in its prime can be.
We also spent a day cruising around the Yarra Valley, one of Australia's cool climate wine regions. Vanessa managed to sample a small sip of the entire Domaine Chandon selection, but we were most impressed by the subtle Coldstream Hills offerings and a case was duly shipped back home. Our last afternoon was spent sipping lovely vintages overlooking the lush green landscapes at Australia's oldest winery, Yering Station.
We were highly impressed with Victoria and intend to spend more time to explore it further in the future.
